Taiwan

Taipei

Steamy

Sleek

Sacral

Three cup chicken ❘ Dietmar Rauscher/Alamy

Raohe night market ❘ Craig Ferguson/LightRocket/Getty Images

Maokong Gondola ❘ Sam Yeh/AFP/Getty Images

Elephant Mountain ❘ I.S.S Photography/Getty Images

Dihua Street ❘ Supanut Arunoprayote/Wikimedia Commons/CC BY 4.0 Deed

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Night markets, tea shops, and skyscrapers, with a side of hiking.

History is evident in the city’s century-old tea shops, Taoist temples, and traditional bazaars.

An often-overlooked Asian metropolis, Taipei is full of relaxed streets and tropical greenery alongside rambunctious urban corners and vast arteries of traffic. The dining scene has a mix of street vendors who have been doling out the same braised pork belly over rice for generations, as well as fine-dining specialists channeling both native and endemic ingredients like maqaw, a local lemon pepper, and aiyu, a jelly made from the seeds of a fig. Of note: This year, for the first time ever, a Taiwanese restaurant (Taïrroir) was awarded three Michelin stars.

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For a mix of old and new, stop by the Dadaocheng neighborhood on the western edge of the city. It’s the oldest part of town, reliably swollen with vendors by the temple doling out rice noodle soups and braised pig intestines. History is evident in the century-old tea shops such as Lin Hua Tai Tea, Taoist temples, and Yongle Market, a traditional bazaar dedicated to textiles. In recent years, the district has also embraced modernity with an influx of sleek cocktail bars and hip coffee shops. For a bit of both, try City North for its coffee-flavored cocktails.

Beitou Thermal Valley ❘ Suriya Desatit/Shutterstock

In the evenings, whenever you’re not at a night market, book a table at a rechao restaurant such as Baxian Grill, a lively late-night eatery with plastic outdoor seating by the street. Indulge in hearty classics such as three-cup chicken, grilled pork neck, or spicy stinky tofu, accompanied by a bottle of ice-cold Taiwan Beer. Or indulge in a hearty bowl of beef noodle soup at Chef Hung’s, a five-time award-winning champion of the annual national soup competition.

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Be warned that Taipei is a subtropical city, with sweltering summer heat, occasional typhoons, and intense humidity. If that sounds like too much, visit during the dry season between November and February, when the weather is pleasantly mild and occasionally crisp. Take advantage of the mild conditions and head up north to Beitou, where there is a bevy of private and public hot springs. After a relaxing dip, stroll around Thermal Valley, a stunning urban park anchored around a spring so hot that swirling steam blankets the area.

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For something a bit more quirky or to enjoy a unique vantage point, dine on top of an incinerator at Touch Star Revolving Restaurant. For an urban adventure, head to the top of Taipei 101, the tallest skyscraper on the island (once the tallest in the world), which has a giant built-in pendulum to prevent the building from swaying. Or browse boutiques and bookstores in one of the city’s many shopping malls, such as Eslite Nanxi Spectrum or Guang Hua Digital Plaza. Unless you’re planning to hit up a traditional market or a breakfast shop, feel free to sleep in; most shops do not open until 11 am. For a respite in nature, stroll or bike alongside the Tamsui River or go for a brief hike on Elephant Mountain, which offers a view of the city. If you’re feeling extra adventurous, grab a headlamp and embark on a night hike to the Hemei Mountain Trail in Bitan during firefly season, from April to June.

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— Clarissa Wei