In a gallery room of the National History and Archaeology Museum in Constanța, Romania, there is a very old snake. Meet the Glykon, an ancient serpent god with a lamb’s snout, human hair, lion's tail, and snake's body, all carved out of marble. Experts estimate that if they could untangle its body, the Glykon would measure over 16 feet in length. The sculpture was discovered in Constanța in 1962, having likely been buried with other pagan objects to protect them from the attention of Christians during the Roman Empire. Today, it stands as one of many fascinating artifacts in this Black Sea port, Romania’s oldest continuously inhabited city.
While many travelers to Romania stick around in the capital of Bucharest or jet off to Transylvania for the mountains and vampiric lore, Constanța offers up some of the country’s most fascinating Roman history and old stone architecture full of balconies and terracotta roofs—alongside the added bonus of crescent-shaped, sun-swathed beaches.
Crowning the edge of the city’s peninsula is the Constanța Casino, built in the Art Nouveau style at the beginning of the 20th century. The ornate building was once a hotspot for seaside gambling, but fell into disrepair until briefly being used as a hospital during World War II. It is currently under renovation, but from a bench on the nearby boardwalk, it’s a beauty, towering over the sea like the bow of a ship.
The Romans annexed the city in 29 B.C., but its roots go back much further, to 600 B.C. The stately National History and Archaeology Museum is located in Ovid Square. Before going inside, take in the monumental statue of the square’s namesake poet, who was exiled to the city (at the time called Tomis) from Rome by Emperor Octavian Augustus. From there, it’s a short walk to the excellent Museum of Folk Art; the Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul, which has an elaborate Orthodox interior; and the Great Mahmudiye Mosque, home to the country’s largest carpet. Nearby is the lesser-visited Ion Jalea sculpture museum along the water, filled with engravings, busts, and reliefs by the 20th-century artist. And hidden below a row of apartment buildings near a recently renovated, massive Roman mosaic floor are the remnants of Roman baths, now overgrown.
Surrounding all of this is the Black Sea, one of Constanța’s biggest draws. In the summer, crowds flock to Plaja Mamaia and Constanta Beach for an ideal end to a day (or week) spent absorbing ancient history.
Get ready for an adventure! Delta Airlines and Atlas Obscura will soon unveil the top 24 destinations for 2024. Stay tuned!